Merci Paris. Je ne regrette rien.

As I sit here writing this post from the airplane over the Atlantic, I have a small young fellow screaming his lungs out from across the row, playing a “fun” game of who can make the most noise with his father (who obviously is losing). Funny enough, the situation makes me laugh more than anything. I am still just in shock that I am actually coming home after 4 months of living in Paris.

My last few days were spent “re-seeing” the city for one final time and actually preparing to leave! I started packing a few days prior to the departure date, so it wasn’t very stressful to make everything work. I had to leave a few items of clothing and things behind, and I still wasn’t surprised when I got slapped with the 50-dollar fine for having ten pounds over the limit on my check-in bag!

The bottles of the French.

For a while I was trying to decide what I wanted to do for my very last full day in Paris. It was then that I realized that I shouldn’t force what was going to happen, just see where I ended up during the day. It ended up being a nice plan, as Victoria and I made an afternoon tour of Montmartre (where I had a great cheese and ham crepe), then down to get a baguette and crème brulee at Absesses. After lunch, we made a stop at St. Michel, Notre Dame, Luxembourg Gardens, our school, and finally said goodbye to the ISA staff at the offices. I was actually really sad to say goodbye to them all! Minus Nadine (I will miss you!), I bid my adieus, and let them know how appreciative I was for all they had done. They really did a fantastic job during the semester.

The ISA staff.

Finishing dinner (Escargot, breaded chicken, goat cheese, salad and mango sorbet), I was off to Trocadero to view the France vs. Mexico World Cup match! When my friends and I arrived, it was insanely packed. We got a spot on the side standing where we could see the screen, and unhappily watched as France lost. Three of my friends I was with were dolled up in Mexico Flags and ribbons, and needless to say, were very happy with the outcome. What happened after the game is what really got my heart racing, however. Victoria and I were walking down the hill towards the Eiffel Tower, and we heard a fight happening down at the snack stand. The place was packed, but we saw (and heard) lots of commotion. All of a sudden, we saw tons of helmets race in above everyone’s heads, and it was instantly a madhouse. I swear, with how the men darted away from the police in herds, I felt like I was in a real life Jurassic Park stampede. I instantly covered my head and began to run off to the side where everyone was running, in fear of a tear-gas bomb being thrown or something. Haha. Victoria tried to bob her head up higher to see what was going on, and then ran off to the side as well. Thankfully, everyone knew not to mess with the police, so their barricade of shields and batons were all in vain. What a crazy last night in Paris, though!

My school.

The area outside my metro station that I walked by everyday. The cage areas were usually full of homeless people sleeping.

Another crazy incident that I witnessed this past week was in the Metro with my friend Corine. We were minding our own business, chatting about Harry Potter (we were going to the house of Nicholas Flamel) and then we heard yelling coming from behind us. We were stopped at a station, and two people were holding the doors open with their bodies. It took us a moment to understand what was going on, as so many people were frantic. Three or four young gypsy girls had stolen objects from two Asian tourists, and a kind Parisian woman had called them out for it. The gypsies got out of the Metro, and a young man jumped out and began shaking one of the young girls until a Louis Vuitton wallet fell out of her shirt! The man gave the girl a huge whack on the back of the head, and then kicked her on her side. We were all in shock by everything about the situation. After the wallet was found, people continued to yell that the girls had stolen more from the tourists, and that they should go after them. The man who had gotten the wallet moments before ran up the stairs after the girls, we heard screams, and then the metro doors closed. How intense is that? It just goes to show that you have to be really careful at all times with your bags and belongings.

What I walked through everyday to get to class.

Wednesday I was able to check off another item on my Paris-bucket-list. I went with three of my friends to the Opera Bastille to watch a 5-hour long opera (Die Walkure- Wagner)! The whole experience was bizarre. I loved listening to the professionals singing beautiful music, but I have to be honest…three hours and 45 minutes of just opera is a bit taxing on your energy level. Especially since we had bought rush tickets that didn’t allow you to see the translation! I had no idea what was going on, but I just kept reminding myself that the opportunity of what I was partaking in was beyond amazing. And hey, I survived it!

The Opera Bastille.

At the very beginning of this journey I wrote down six goals that I had for my semester in Paris. I thought it would be nice to look back and reflect on each of them! The six goals were:

1. Develop a strong ability to converse and understand spoken French.

2. Decipher differences of cultures with a strong appreciation.

3. Learn to live in the moment more often.

4. Discover the heart of Paris.

5. Have adventure be a part of my everyday living.

6. Pretend to be a Parisian to a group of American tourists. Ha!

1. Develop a strong ability to converse and understand spoken French.

As I’ve previously stated in posts, this was sadly not completely fulfilled. I was able to finally get a hold on the French language, however, and so I am happy with the advancements that I made in my oral comprehension and ability to converse. I am a lot better than when I first arrived.

2. Decipher differences of cultures with a strong appreciation.

This one is a bit easier to pinpoint. The first two weeks I was in Paris, I was overcome with a strong sense of pride for the U.S. I have never been overly patriotic, so I was confused as to why I all of a sudden wanted to scream my love for America. Months later, I realized that it was me channeling my feelings of culture shock into what I was comfortable with. It’s great to look back and see how many things I thought were strange compared to America, and how I feel now. It took me living there for 4 months to really appreciate how Parisians work and function in their lives.

3. Learn to live in the moment more often.

I’ve always felt like I somewhat lacked in this point. A lot of times I am very cautious and scared of how situations will bring about changes for my future. This semester taught me that (as cliché as it is) you really do live and learn. I went through so many experiences this semester that were only possible by me not weighing the outcome so intensely, taking life a little less seriously, and just enjoying my time! It helps you breathe a little easier, just smiling and realizing that a lot of times, things are only as serious or emotional as you make them. For me, that idea in itself is what living in the moment means.

Drinking fountains that are all around the city.

4. Discover the heart of Paris.

Before I left America for this adventure, I felt like I already knew the answer to this goal, and I was right. The heart of Paris? It’s whatever you desire it to be! I feel like there is so much being offered in the city, it is what you take from it that makes the heart of Paris for each individual, and that’s what is so great about it! What I’m trying to explain is that I feel like each of my friends and I gained totally different perceptions of what the core of Paris was and is. None are incorrect, and each show different facets of the city.

The garden of the school.

5. Have adventure be a part of my everyday living.

Living in the city that I did, this goal was extremely easy to achieve. I had all of my afternoons free to explore and see all the monuments, museums and streets that my heart desired. Everyday was filled with a new site, whether planned or accidental. My day was an adventure even when I didn’t want it to be!

The oldest home in Paris, and also the former home of Nicholas Flamel.

6. Pretend to be a Parisian to a group of American tourists. Ha!

It took me until the very last day in Paris to complete this goal. I knew that I had written the post before coming, so I realized I had to complete it! It happened at the core location of all tourism: Notre Dame. Whenever I wanted to see a tourist, that was the place to go to. I sat down with Victoria and waited to see the prime opportunity to try my acting skills. I saw a family trying to take a family photo, so I decided it would be my shot. I swiftly went up to the Dad with the camera (an amazing Nikon) and asked him in my best French accent, “Excooze me, wood yu like me tu take yur peektchur?” The man took a second to try and size me up to see if I was a scam artist or not, and then finally replied with a kind “yes please, if you could!” The rest of the scene played out like this:

Tourist: (hands me camera) Ok, you just press it down halfway LIKE THIS (makes exaggerated hand miming motions to show how to take a picture) and then press take the picture.

Me: Ok, comme ca? (Like this?)

Tourist: Uh…yes.

Me: Un, deux, trois! –Takes picture- Voila!

Tourist and family: Merci, merci, merci! (With strong American accent)

Me: De rien, bonne journee! (You’re welcome, have a good day!)

Victoria watched on from afar and loved seeing the show. I was so proud they really thought I wasn’t an American! It was fun to finally check that off my list of things to do. I hope they got a good impression of the “French”! ha.

One-legged pigeon.

I’ve obtained each of my goals in different ways, yet I feel like every one that I set for myself was a great challenge and helped push me to take advantage of the experience.

I’m going to miss Paris so much, yet I am happy to be going home. I know that a piece of the city will always be with me, and for that I am grateful. The fact of the matter? I love France, and I love America. Being in either country makes me happy, and what more is there to life than being happy?

Affecteusement,

George

Allez Les Bleus!

My time here in Paris has almost come to an end, but that doesn’t mean I haven’t seen and done my fair share of new things this past week! As grades for my classes had to be turned in last Tuesday, I have been going to class solely by willpower and realizing that I still need to be in a classroom setting. Without grades, most of the class periods are spent conversing in French, which has ended up being really great for my pre-departure days. I am scared about how much French I am going to lose this summer before school.

I have wanted to spend my remaining afternoons going to the places I had always thought about going, yet never had given myself the chance. One of the places on that list was La Defense.

Known as the major business district of Paris, this area in the far west of the city is full of high skyscrapers and hoards of businessmen (and businesswomen). A lot of Parisians seem to dislike the area, claiming that it’s “not Paris”. Even tourists express their negative opinion of the district being too “American”.

Look closely and you can see L'Arc De Triomphe in the distance.

I, myself, loved La Defense! For some reason, I found it to be a refreshing new look at Paris as a whole, and gave me more of an appreciation for the magnitude of the city and its culture. Alongside the buildings were many pieces of contemporary art that I enjoyed taking photos of with the city in the background.

Well, someone gave this part of town a big thumbs-up!

Another place off of my “Paris bucket list” was the Pantheon. Walking past it most days after school, I always had intended on going there, yet never managed to find the time. It’s usually around 6-8 Euros to get in, so it wasn’t until I found out that I could use my Visa to get in for free that I made my way over to the historical site.

First built as a replacement church of the Abbey of St. Genevieve, upon completion it was turned into a mausoleum for prominent French figures. I walked in and was a bit surprised by the size of the building in general. After looking at the massive paintings on the walls, I made my way down into the crypts. Many well-known people are buried there, including Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, and Voltaire. It was cold and quiet underground, but seeing how many famous people were buried there was awesome.

"Foucault's Pendulum" which proved the earth was rotating.

Live Free or Die.

The grave of Voltaire.

After the crypts, I waited to take the tour of the dome of the Pantheon. Once the tour started, we climbed lots and lots of stairs until we had reached the top of the interior of the main room. It was great to see everything from the top looking down. The next step in the tour was to the outside of the dome! The view was incredible, with the Eiffel Tower and all the other great monuments of Paris is full view. After a good 20 minutes at the dome, the group made our way back down the steps. I was so happy I had finally made the time to experience the Pantheon, as I was completely impressed!

Going to one of the top spots on the list of coolest events that I participated in France was this past Friday night. I, along with Victoria, went to watch the World Cup match between France and Uruguay on a big screen. But didn’t I mention? It was on the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower, alongside 15,000 other fans! The ambiance was so awesome, that even though the teams tied, I had a memorable evening.

Didn't even have to edit it. The sky was so cool.

Representing other countries.

Looking back on it, however, I would have liked to see the outcry from French people if France had won or lost. They lit flares after a red card was called, so I can only imagine what would have happened if they had won!

People keep asking me if I am ready to come home. My answer? It is bittersweet. I am ready in some regard to have the comforts of my family and friends, but I have found so much to love about Paris and this experience as a whole, so leaving is going to bring a lot of different emotions. Now I have to try and pack, which is a completely different story…

Affecteusement,

George

America is my country, Paris is my hometown.

Ernest Hemingway perfectly expressed what I am feeling at this point in my journey here in France when he said: “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

This has been the longest and most drawn-out goodbye I have ever had to make in my life. Considering many of my friends in the ISA program left last week, I have already had my fair share of participating in “things-to-do-before-I-leave-Paris” lists, and all have been great! Picnics of bread and cheese in parks, revisiting favorite spots in the city, and of course waving goodbye to the Eiffel Tower. Saying “au revoir” to my friends was definitely a sad moment in my trip, yet at the same time I was interested and excited to see how the change in my usual routine would affect my last two weeks here. The verdict? I have realized that this city is what I love, and the people around me are the bonuses to the experience!

My week has been full of free afternoons to myself after class. Considering the great weather, I have taken full advantage of them. I find that now in my time here in Paris, I am finally able to discover how the “average Joe” Parisian people live and enjoy their time.

One afternoon, I finally made my way to the northeast side of the city to a park called Buttes Chaumont. What an amazing place! This hidden gem is in the middle of residential buildings, and is complete with rolling hills, gazebo-topped cliff, and even a cave with a waterfall. I was content just walking around the entire park for the afternoon and soaking in the beautiful weather and friendly atmosphere. I loved all the families picnicking and people playing games in the fields. There were times I felt like I was in a national state park with all the green around me. I even saw a movie being filmed there!

The movie being filmed!

Another great find of the week came from walking from the Seine River to my apartment. I ended up winding up several random streets and across the picturesque Canal de St. Martin. Beyond the Canal, I found numerous side streets full of quirky shops and local restaurants. One thing I love about Paris? You can be here for months and still find things you never knew existed. I am constantly learning new things about neighborhoods and buildings around the city.

Beyond the permanent sites to see, something new is going on everyday of the week in the cultural community. Just last week I visited a free photography exposition at Hotel de Ville, saw a ramp being built at the Eiffel Tower for a man wanting to make the Guinness World Record for highest roller-skating jump, witnessed two protests in the streets and watched a part of the French Open on a mega screen near the Notre Dame. I am constantly amazed at how alive this city is!

Here is a prime example of the spontaneous events that have regularly occurred in my Parisian life this semester. My friend Victoria invited me to an event called “La Nuit du Chocolate” (The Night of Chocolate). She had heard about it on the news earlier that day, and I made my way over with little knowledge of what was to come. She explained that for one night, the store, “La Maison du Chocolate” (The House of Chocolate) was giving away desserts for free. We were expecting to get a small individual serving of chocolate cake, and were pretty ecstatic about it. (Due to our funds, a single piece of chocolate cake was exciting enough, as anything free is better than nothing at all!) After 15 minutes in line, workers started flooding out of the store with platters full of macaroons, mousse, cake and other assorted desserts for people in line to devour. Over the course of almost two hours in line, I ate 10 macaroons, 3 pieces of chocolate, 2 pieces of chocolate cake, 1 chocolate mousse, 1 vanilla puff pastry and 1 chocolate éclair. By the time that we actually stepped foot in the store, we were not feeling the greatest. Out came dozens of large desserts that were all at our fingertips. We could literally point at one and the workers would give it to us. Of course my stomach didn’t agree with my decisions, but it was definitely a memorable night. It is events like that that make me never want to leave this place!

Saturday, I finally made my way up to the flea markets at Porte de Clignancourt. Known for the antique shops, I was excited to take some photos and see what they had to offer. Upon arrival, I was incredibly disappointed. What lay in front of me was a street full of makeshift tents full of people trying to sell cheap souvenirs and knockoff name brand merchandise. Thankfully, a friend informed me earlier that day to walk through the first street to get to the good stuff. I hurriedly made my way through the tents, where I breathed a sigh of relief. Winding through tiny streets about the size of a city block were actual antique stores! Prices were generally high, as a lot of the items for sale were extremely old or collector’s items, but if I had wanted to find something fun for myself I could have, as many shops had trinket items for lower prices. It was great to walk through the area and snap photos of the eccentric mix of items in each store.

The initial market that you walk through.

Other days this past week have included relaxing on the edge of the Seine with a good book, practicing my written French comprehension, hanging out with friends that are still here, and lots of walking! Also, this past weekend I was able to meet up with my friend Anna Wickham from home and show her and her friends around Paris. It was so great to see a familiar face once again. Even though it is a collision of the familiarity of home and the life here in Paris, I loved seeing her so much. She has been backpacking throughout Europe for a month since graduating, and after this epic adventure is moving to Korea for a year to teach English. She is the epitome of an adventurous traveler!

Anna!

A view of the escalator at Musee de Georges Pompidou.

One more mention: I went up to one of my (new) favorite areas of the city last week. Located around the Metro stop Absesses, the area is full of hills and smaller streets. I love that there are less tourists, yet a lot of fun shops and things to see at the same time. It was in the same area that I got a baguette that was voted and named the “best baguette in Paris 2010”! It was definitely a winner in my book.

The boulangerie with "the best baguette in Paris".

I am continually blown away by the dimensions of this city, and how much I still need to see! This last week I am planning on saying my own farewells to favorite things of Paris, and then will be on my flight to the states Friday afternoon.

Affecteusement,

George